Anastasios Hairatidis and Medhat Ibrahim, the duo behind borderline theme restaurants Casa La Femme, Eros and Tapas Lounge (Egyptian, Greek and Spanish respectively), looked to the Pampas for their latest inspiration. They imported high-backed wood chairs and tables and all the trappings, like cowhide rugs from Argentina for that estancia look---after dinner you’ll be surprised to step outside to see a bland residential neighborhood instead of rolling ranch hills.

Even the chef is imported---overseeing the kitchen is Patricia Douek Pirotte, president of the Foundation of Gastronomica Iberoamericana in Buenos Aires. She has put together a feast of Argentine cuisine, an Italian-South American blend; that means there are plenty of sausages and empanadas. But there are also starters such as albondigas (veal meatballs in tomato sauce) and calamares rellenos (stuffed calamari). Just be sure to get an order of noquis caseros, the equivalent of gnocchi that’s traditionally eaten on the 29th of each month in Argentina. These little potato pillows are the essence of home cooking in a light grape-tomato sauce. While roasted organic chicken and whole sea bass are on the menu, the focus, like any good Argentine restaurant, is on meat. The parilla mixta, or mixed grill, is a good sampler---meaty short ribs, beautifully chewy skirt steak topped with chimichurri sauce, sweetbreads, and mild chorizo. The traditional bife de chorizo ($1.80 per ounce), slow-cooked on the grill, comes in the form of USDA prime sirloin or Argentine-style grass-fed sirloin (from Australia until the embargo on Argentine beef is lifted.) One of the selections of Argentine Malbecs makes a good match. As at American steakhouses, sides (grilled corn, grilled vegetables, fries hinting of parsley and lemon) are extra. Late-night grazers will be glad to know this Hacienda is open until 3 a.m. Wednesday to Saturday.